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Food Review: Chef Alessandro's New Menu at Vetro

  By KARISHMA RAJANI   Jul 1st 2013 at 1:21PM Lifestyle RATED

What's hot:

The chocolate olive oil cake, with a layer of bitter orange marmalade in the middle, is a hot favourite.

What's not:

Nothing at all.

Luxpresso verdict:

The new menu promises to be authentic, experimental and remarkably different from usual Italian affair!

EDITOR'S RATING:

Italian food at vetro
Vetro at The Oberoi, Mumbai

 


My meal at Vetro began with the much talked-about Porcini cappuccino – a smooth, frothy mixture, complemented by the crackle of mushroom, and shot of caffeine that made it very, very affable. With Vetro’s latest addition, Chef Alessandro Stefoni from Hassler (Rome) in the kitchen, I was ready to have an Italian affair.

"I like painting my platter," the chef said. On queue, a plate of terrine arrived - oblong slices of bell pepper and zucchini intertwined to perfection - accompanied by a serving of light pesto. Offerings of the third course included a vegetable tagliolini cooked with scamorza and a linguine with sea bass ragout. Each of the dished rendered the chef’s words beautifully.

For the mains, I settled for the baked red onions and smoked eggplant – an unconventional combination that was as pleasing on the palate as it was on the plate. The onions, softened to perfection, cocooned the vegetable and the ricotta. The crushed amaretti cookies, close to macaroons in taste and texture, formed an element of surprise.

The grilled asparagus and ricotta cake was another delectable vegetarian offering. However, the sheer richness of the platter made it more suited to a stand-alone meal. Meat-lovers could choose between a roast chicken pie and a bekti, fashioned after a pizzaiola, with served bean salad, Swiss chard and fresh chilli.

And finally, as I awaited the single most important course of my meal, Chef Alessandro mentioned the chocolate & orange cake in-waiting had been created with olive oil – an ingredient that helps retain the moisture. As for the marmalade in the centre, he said, as he shared his secret recipe, it must always be bitter. Decadence then arrived. Vanilla ice-cream on the side.

A meal for two costs approximately Rs 3500 without alcohol. The Oberoi, Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Road, Nariman Point, Mumbai.

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