Day three at the Lakme Fashion Week Summer-Resort 2012 went back to the basics, celebrating Indian Textile Day. All the designers that showcased their work paid homage to the piece of cloth from which all fashion begins.
The day started off with Purvi Doshi, Sashikant Naidu and Vaishali Shahdangule showing beautiful collections that were true to the essence of the cloth they were trying to highlight.
Purvi's collection Chalval, or movement was completely khadi-centric and drew inspiration from simple geometric shapes like the circle, square and triangle. Using layering, she effectively created asymmetrical flowing tunics, togas, cropped tops and saris with a touch of embroidery. The colour palette stayed very natural, with beige, ecru and khadi.
Sashikant's entire collection was a tribute to his state, Andhra Pradesh. The collection had a very folksy feel with the usage of ikkat, kalamkari and khadi present along with tussore and ahimsa silk. The traditional dyes presented colours of yellow, orange, blue, green and red further showing the folk influence. The Lambada jewellery was the finishing touch.
Vaishali's collection was inspired by the traditional Maharashtrian handloom, khand. The textile itself has brown and green tones to which she added maroon and deep blue. She turned this traditional fabric into high fashion very effortlessly as a parade of tunics, stoles, jumpsuits, jackets, shirts, saris and kurtas sashayed down the runway. She accentuated the fabric with tiny hints of chanderi that peeked out.
As the day progressed, the shows only got more interesting. Next, Debarun Mukherjee showed his collection Bygone which was inspired the simplicity of the good old days. Even the music was reminiscent of old Bollywood. He used a straightforward colour palette that was predominantly white, with subtle hints of colours like blue, green, orange that are inspired from the natural landscapes around us. Simple silhouettes of kaftans, saris, churi pants, flared trousers, short tops and flared trousers were accentuated by his signature cut work and patchwork designs. For men, he created kurtas, suits and draw tring, flared pants along with shirt kurtas, using a mix of white and colour. India-made cotton, chandari, crushed mal mal and dupion silk were used. Shahana Goswami looked ethereal as his showstopper in a white sari with a silver border.
Farah and Firdos' collection had white, blue, green, red and brown in Bhagalpur silk. This collection showed by Bhagalpur silk at its best and why these weavers need to be supported and the craft revived. The duo showcased handmade textures and special weaves that were truly spectacular. The silk was draped over a simple sheath which was used as the base in each garment. Silk was truly the star in each ensemble and was draped in a variety of ways including being bunched, folded, and tucked and rouched. The green jacket, sari draped dress and the brown braided dresses were stand outs. The texture and draping of the final white gown showed why the collection was aptly named Cocoon.
Paromita Bannerjee's collection Haat, was inspired by the marketplace and the bustle of colours and life that comes from it. The clothes had a very street, everyday feel to them which was further pronounced by the use of the chappal (slippers) on the runway. Her use of ikkat, shibori dyes and bandhini made for a vibrant collection that is extremely wearable in today's India. Her effort to reinvent Indian fabric, dyeing and clothes in a new context worked wonderfully with her use of Indian muslin, khadi and Chanderi, Matka silk, Madras checks in fun indo-western, bohemian silhouettes. She used block prints and the tree of life motif in many garments and even tried her hand at a men's line this time around. The double asymmetric mini with kimono and the jackets were some of the show's highlight.
Bunon, which means weaving was the name of Soumitra's collection that featured beautiful 200-300 count khadi and jamdani in a simple off-white and a matte golden brown colour palette. He showed that khadi can be luxury and that less his more. His saris, with white checks and minimal traditional gold, hand embroidery and crinkled pants, sheer crushed tunic were all stars in their own right, and the final ornate lehenga showed that khadi and jamdani are luxurious in their delicacy. The hair done up with traditional hand crafted flowers used at Bengali weddings was the last customary touch to finish the looks.
The next show travelled from Bengal to Karnataka, through Deepika Govind's collection of the handloom of Ilkal. The checks and stripes pattern in the weaving is very geometric and traditional of the South. Keeping in mind the trends for this season the silhouettes were very organic, with draping and asymmetrical hemlines. The colour scheme throughout the collection was filled with indigo, cerulean blue, green, fern, teal, fuchsia and magenta with some touches of aubergine, red and black. The tunics, dresses and saris were embellished with frill details, frayed edges, appliqués and cutwork.
Krishna Mehta has long been a spokesperson for Indian fabric. She even curated the Textile Day in addition to showing her collection this season. Featuring lovely rich brocade and cotton cutwork, Krishna created an alluring statement on the ramp. Pooja Mishra sitting front row, in one of her creations looked admiringly as the collection went from muted colours of black and white into more bold shades of red, mango and orange. The daisy motif was featured throughout the collection as borders on her saris and on kurtas with churi sleeves or as a lovely red bolero jacket. The finale black gown was a proud declaration that glamourous evening wear gowns can also come from Indian fabrics.
The much-awaited finale of the day finally arrived, and in attendance sat Rohit Bal, Urmila Matondkar, Purab Kohli and Sangeeta Bijlani. Waves of Joy by Anita Dongre, opened by model and actor Dipannita Sharma with a Godrej interio presetation, was full of vibrant, colourful and comfortable garments that made a very resort-style impact. Using Benarasi silk and cotton brocade weaves, bandhini, hand painted silks from Jaipur, Ikats from Andhra Pradesh, and Chikan kari she created a retro classic inspired collection with 1950's silhouettes and a very boho feel. She also infused some contemporary fabrics like jersey on which she did patti work, and hand painted saris with bustier style blouses among others. In keeping with resort she gave us flowing maxi dresses, palazzos, skirts and the 50's style dress with cinched waistlines and big stiff flouny petticoats and interesting open square backs. The colours went from candy pink, aqua,sea green, greys and muted yellows to lime. She even showed us cool linen shirts for men in a variety of cool pastel colours pink and lime as well as structured trousers brighter oranges and yellows along with some neutral blazers and jackets in black and white.
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