Lipstick Jungle: Masaba Gupta for Satya Paul Debuts at WIFW

Masaba Gupta. Image Courtesy: Viral Bhayani

“While opening the show is quite prestigious, I must admit it comes with a lot of responsibility. In a way you’re setting the tune for the rest of the fashion week and all the shows that are to follow,” she revealed. As Satya Paul showcased its collection at the Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week yesterday, Masaba finally made her debut as creative director.

“I’ve been working on this show since late last year. Like pieces from my own label, this collection comes with a little part of me. But Satya Paul is a legacy that dates back to 30 years. Every line created by the label has come with a strong message. There’s an element of emotion to every piece that has been constructed. A lot of people were under the impression that I was trying to change what the brand stands for. But I’m simply to create something fresh, while keeping the label’s design sensibilities in mind,” she smiled.

Sanctity of the Sari

Ask a woman of her mother’s generation and she will tell you she treasures her Satya Paul like fine-wine. And so it is the younger generation that Masaba is vying for. “As a nation, we’re obsessed with gowns. Most young women from urban backgrounds think of the sari as strictly occasional wear. And that is something I wish to change with this prêt collection. Of course, Satya Paul is synonymous with a whole range of silhouettes. So I’ve mixed things up a bit with tunics and dresses,” she said.

The Satya Paul Spring-Summer 2013. Image Courtesy: Viral Bhayani

Project Runway

As the collection revealed itself yesterday, the lipstick took centrestage. Phone booths and ink stains adorned the rest of the collection. Peter pan collared blouses accompanied the saree as shifts, A-line dresses and midis made an appearance. Suspenders formed the key accessory for an ensemble that combined the maxi skirt with a cropped top. Another element of surprise came in the form of lipstick print vanity kits. “In order to make the collection youth-friendly, it is necessary to quirk things up a little,” she said.

Off the Beaten Track

Part of her design philosophy is to always be true to herself. When the palm print first hit the stores, nobody was willing to invest in a piece of clothing with a ‘hand’ on it. Fast forward to 2013, the print has achieved an almost cult-status. “When we discontinued the pattern, we had a number of clients call in to say they simply must have it. We had to start production all over again.”

So what does it take for a woman to pull off a Satya Paul design? “I have a model in mind,” she revealed mysteriously, “but if you ask me about Bollywood, I would definitely pick Jacqueline (Fernandes), Huma Qureshi and Kalki (Koechlin). There is an off-beat way in which these women carry themselves.” With Masaba as the creative head, we would expect nothing less.