Bina Goenka Makes Heirloom Jewellery for India's Beautiful People

She might be a lawyer by training, but Bina Goenka has been creating beautiful jewellery for over a decade now. The mother of two, who makes bespoke pieces for Mumbai's, as well as the world's, jet set, has said previously that with each piece of jewellery she creates, she wants to give her buyers something 'state-of-the-art, almost like a collector's item'.

And she would know a thing or two about creating collector's items; the socialite wife of DB Realty's Pramod Goekna, has a very clear vision of what her eponymous line should be. Bina, who retails out of her Susanne Roshan-designed store at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai since 2007, says the focus isn't so much on the number of rubies, or how much it's going to fetch, but about creating an heirloom piece that can be hand down over generations.

We spoke to the jewellery designer about her work. Below are edited excerpts:

What does luxury mean to you?

Luxury is a way of life; it denotes a certain lifestyle which one conforms to. It is a fine space which is perceived as inspirational and aspirational and an investment which is based on passion.

Can you tell us about setting up your own brand?

Initially, I never saw myself getting into the jewellery line. I was a lawyer by profession. But my passion for creative innovation led me to experimenting with jewellery design as a hobby. At first I started designing for my friends and family. And once both my kids went abroad to study, I decided to use my free time constructively and make a business out of my passion. I started by designing for a luxury brand; they loved my designs. But the brand didn't develop and go forward the way I imagined it would, mainly since jewellery was not their focus. At the same time, my creativity kept rising and I felt that it was getting hampered. That's when I decided to launch my own brand, 'Bina Goenka', a brand that is now known to be dramatic, modern and futuristic - designs which far outlive trends.

What is your trademark style?

My creations are eclectic and inspired by nature. Our designs are symbolic of abstract renditions; which could either be an amalgamation of geometrics or forms of nature, and at times both combined. Opulent and flamboyant always!

Can you describe your current collection?

Cleopatra revisited! That's how I can best describe my current collection. Inspired by the essence of Egypt, the techniques used in my current collection are ancient yet eclectic enough to fit into today's world and forward enough to walk into the future. Grand and opulent in design; yet light in weight and fluid in nature, the current collection makes the wearer feel weightless and is uber-luxurious - a luxury which feels like part of your own skin.

You talk about creating heirloom jewellery. Can you tell us what your most prized heirlooms are?

My most prized heirloom is a green emerald and red coral bracelet. The beautiful emerald is encased in solitaries of all shapes. The corals are oval and encased in hands (hands to hold the stone) made of emeralds and rubies.

Please recommend 5 key jewellery pieces for a bridal trousseau?

A ring, bracelet, earrings, a choker and a chain - in that order. The chain should be easy to wear and fashionable. The entire set work by a bride should have similar elements yet be different in design so that one can always make the most of all the pieces independently.